Quick answer: Inspect the plant and photograph any damage before you move it. Check the soil with your finger before watering. Give it bright, indirect light, keep it away from drafts, and leave it alone for about two weeks, with no repotting and no fertilizer. Keep it away from your other plants while you watch for pests.
A note on sources: we did not find a university extension publication on this topic. The steps below are practical care guidance, and we say so where a claim is practice rather than research.
Hour one: inspect and photograph
Look for snapped stems, crushed or torn leaves, and soil that is soaked or bone dry. Take photos of the box, the packing, and any damage before you move the plant. Claim rules and timing are on our live plant guarantee page, so check them early.
Check the soil before you water
Push a finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil.
- Damp: skip watering. Shipped soil often still holds moisture, and extra water can rot roots.
- Dry: water until it drains from the holes, then empty the saucer. UNL Extension advises watering until about 10% of the water drains out the bottom of the pot, which shows the whole root ball has been reached.
Set the light and temperature
Start in bright, indirect light, not direct sun. A plant that has just been boxed can scorch in a sunny window. Move it closer to the window over one to two weeks.
- Keep it away from AC and heat vents, which dry the air and swing the temperature.
- Do not place leaves against cold glass in winter. UNL Extension notes that leaves next to cold glass can be near freezing.
- Away from windows, UNL Extension places room conditions in the 50 to 70 °F range, and most plants grow best in the low 70s.
Day two: check the roots if it still looks limp
Gently lift the plant out of its pot. Healthy roots are firm and white or tan. Brown, mushy roots with a sour smell mean the plant has been sitting too wet. Trim damaged roots with clean scissors and repot in fresh, fast-draining mix.
Days 3 to 14: leave it alone
- No repotting for at least a few weeks. Let the plant settle first.
- No fertilizer. Feeding a recovering plant adds stress. UNL Extension says not to fertilize a newly repotted, wilted, or dormant plant.
- No leaf cleaning or misting for show. Water only when the finger test says so.
- Expect some leaf drop. A few yellow or dropped leaves in the first week are common after shipping.
Quarantine for two to three weeks
Keep the plant apart from your other plants while you check leaf undersides and joints for pests. Our Journal covers fungus gnats, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale if you find something.
What is normal, and what needs attention
| What you see | Usually normal? | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| A few yellow or dropped leaves in week one | Yes | Trim only dead or broken leaves. Keep watching. |
| Snapped stems or crushed leaves on arrival | No, this is shipping damage | Photograph it and check the guarantee page |
| Soft, brown, sour-smelling roots | No | Trim the roots and repot in fresh mix |
| Sticky leaves or white clumps | No | Check for pests and quarantine the plant |
| Brown, crisp leaf edges after two weeks | Often a humidity or water issue | See our humidity guidance for the plant |
Frequently asked questions
Why is my plant dropping leaves after shipping?
Some leaf drop in the first week is common as the plant adjusts to light, temperature, and humidity. Keep the plant steady and check the roots if the drop continues past two weeks.
Should I water right away?
Only if the soil is dry 1 to 2 inches down. Wet soil after shipping means wait.
When can I feed it?
Wait until the plant shows new growth. UNL Extension advises feeding only plants that are actively growing.
Sources
- Browning, S. (2021). Success With Houseplants: Fertilization. Nebraska Extension in Lancaster County.
- Fech, J.C. (2025). Houseplant Survival Guide for Winter. UNL Water, Nebraska Extension.