Cut a section of stem that includes at least one node, ideally with an aerial root and a leaf attached, then root it in water, moist perlite, sphagnum, or a chunky mix. Roots typically appear in about two to four weeks, and the first new leaf can take two to three months. A leaf cut off without a piece of node will root but never grow into a new plant.
What is a node, and why does it matter so much?
A node is the point on the stem where a leaf grows out. On a monstera it shows as a slightly thickened ring around the stem, often with a brown, papery scar where an older leaf sheath dried off. Each node carries an axillary bud — a dormant growing point — and that bud is where any new stem and leaf will come from.
This is the part most people miss. A monstera leaf and its petiole have no bud of their own. Put one in water and it will often grow roots, sometimes impressive ones, and then sit there for months doing nothing else until it eventually yellows. University of Minnesota Extension says it plainly: leaves and petioles of M. deliciosa will not grow on their own, because new growth comes from the buds at the nodes.
The other feature to look for is the aerial root — the brown, cord-like root that grows out of the stem, usually at or near a node. A cutting that already has one is not required, but it is easier. That root is a head start, and in water or a moist medium it will often branch and produce feeder roots faster than a bare node can start from nothing.
Where exactly should I cut?
Find a node with an aerial root and a healthy leaf above it. Cut through the internode — the bare stretch of stem between two nodes — roughly an inch or two below that node. You want a short stub of stem below the node, not a cut right through it.
A good first cutting looks like this:
- One or two nodes. More nodes give the cutting more chances to push a bud, but a single node is enough.
- At least one leaf. The leaf feeds the cutting while it roots. If the leaf is very large, it is fine to leave it whole — just give the cutting a heavy jar or pot so it does not tip.
- An aerial root if there is one. Do not trim it short. Leave it as long as it is.
If you are cutting the top of the plant, the growing tip comes with you and usually roots and grows fastest. The stump left in the pot will normally push a new shoot from one of its remaining nodes, so taking the top does not end the mother plant.
Leafless stem sections also work, because they still have nodes. They are just slower.
Do I really need to sterilize my tools?
Yes, and it takes about ten seconds. Monstera stems are thick, and a dirty or blunt blade crushes tissue and carries whatever was on it into an open wound that is going to sit in water or damp media for weeks.
Use a sharp knife or clean pruners, wipe off any old sap or dirt, then wipe or dip the blade in 70% rubbing alcohol. Iowa State University Extension notes that no long soak is needed with alcohol, and that it is less corrosive than bleach. Make one clean cut rather than sawing.
Wear gloves, or at least wash your hands afterwards. Monstera sap contains the same needle-like calcium oxalate crystals that make the plant toxic to chew, and NC State Extension notes that contact with the sap can irritate skin. Keep it away from your eyes. The monstera hub carries the same warning alongside every plant in the genus.
Water, soil, or sphagnum and perlite: which should I use?
All three work. They differ in how easy they are to watch, how much attention they need, and how smoothly the cutting moves into a pot afterwards.
| Method | Good for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Water | Seeing roots form; low effort; first-timers | Roots grown in water are weaker and have to adjust when potted |
| Soil or chunky mix | No transplant step; roots grow up in the medium they will live in | Cannot see progress; soil kept too wet and cool can rot the stem |
| Sphagnum moss or perlite | Holds moisture and air together; easy move to soil later | Needs regular checking so it does not dry out or stay sodden |
Rooting in water
Use a clear glass or jar. Submerge the node and any aerial root, but keep the leaf and as much petiole as possible out of the water. Keep it in bright, indirect light, out of hot direct sun.
Change the water every few days, or whenever it looks cloudy. Rinse any slime off the stem when you do. That one habit prevents most water-propagation rot.
Rooting in soil
Pot the cutting straight into a small pot with drainage — just big enough to hold the stem upright — using a chunky, fast-draining aroid mix. Set the node just below the surface. If the stem has an aerial root, bury that too. The University of Connecticut's home garden factsheet notes that monstera vines with established aerial roots can be buried with a high success rate and little risk of rot.
Keep the mix lightly and evenly moist, never soggy. Minnesota Extension warns that excessively wet, cool soil invites damping off and rot. Our aroid soil recipe maker will give you a mix suited to a cutting rather than a mature plant.
Rooting in sphagnum moss or perlite
This sits between the other two. Moist perlite, or sphagnum squeezed until it is damp rather than dripping, holds water and air around the node at the same time. Minnesota Extension describes perlite as the most commonly used medium for this reason. Put it in a clear cup or container so you can see roots against the side.
Check it every few days. If the moss feels dry, re-wet it. If water pools at the bottom, tip it out. The roots that form in these media are already used to a solid medium, which makes the move to a pot easier.
How long does monstera propagation take?
Ranges, not deadlines. Warmth and light change all of these.
- First new roots: about two to four weeks in typical indoor conditions. Cuttings with an aerial root often start sooner; leafless stem sections often take longer.
- Roots ready to pot up: commonly another few weeks after that, once there are several roots a few inches long with smaller roots branching off them.
- First new leaf: can take two to three months from the cut, according to Minnesota Extension. A cutting that is rooting but not yet leafing is not stalled.
Cuttings taken in late spring and summer generally move faster than winter ones.
How do I move a water-rooted cutting into soil?
Wait until the roots are a few inches long and firm. Healthy roots are white to cream and feel solid; brown, translucent, or mushy roots should be trimmed off with a clean blade first.
Choose a pot only a little wider than the root mass. Minnesota Extension suggests going about two inches wider than the current container when moving up. Too large a pot leaves wet soil the young roots cannot reach.
Settle the cutting at the same depth it sat in water, firm the mix gently around it, and water it through. For the first couple of weeks, keep the mix slightly more evenly moist than you would for an established plant. Water roots are adapted to constant moisture, and they need time to produce roots suited to a mix that dries between waterings. Some drooping in that first week is normal. After that, switch to the usual routine in our monstera watering guide: check the top inch or two and water when it is dry.
Why is my cutting rotting or not rooting?
Most failures fall into a handful of patterns.
The stem is going soft and brown. Rot, usually from stale water, a sodden medium, or cold. Cut back to firm, green tissue with a sterilized blade, let the cut dry for an hour, and restart in fresh water or medium. If the rot has reached the node, the cutting is unlikely to recover — Minnesota Extension notes you may simply need a new cutting.
Roots but no new leaf. Either it is early — check the timeline above — or there is no node. A leaf-and-petiole cutting will root forever without growing. Look again for that ring and bud.
No roots after a month or more. Usually too cold or too dim. Move it somewhere warm with bright, indirect light. A bare node with no leaf and no aerial root is also simply slower.
The leaf yellows. One older leaf yellowing while roots develop is common, as the cutting draws on its stored reserves. If the stem stays firm, leave it.
Is it the same for Monstera adansonii and mini monstera?
Yes, with smaller pieces. Monstera adansonii has thin vining stems with nodes close together, so a cutting of two or three nodes is easy to find and usually roots readily in water or moss. The node rule is the same.
Mini monstera is not a monstera at all — it is Rhaphidophora tetrasperma — but it propagates by node cuttings in exactly the same way. It is sold out at the moment; adansonii is the closest in-stock option if you want a small-leaved climber to take cuttings from. If you want a large plant to propagate from, start with Monstera deliciosa.
The method also carries straight over to pothos, which roots from nodes the same way. Our guide to propagating pothos covers the differences.
Is propagating monstera safe around pets?
The ASPCA lists Monstera deliciosa (under the name cutleaf philodendron) as toxic to cats and dogs, because of insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Signs include oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. A jar of cuttings on a low table is an easy target for a curious animal, and the water itself is worth keeping away from pets too. Put propagation stations up high or in a room pets do not use, and keep trimmed scraps off the floor.
Sources
- University of Minnesota Extension — Propagating Monstera deliciosa
- UConn Home and Garden Education Center — Monstera deliciosa
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox — Monstera deliciosa
- Iowa State University Extension — How do I sanitize my pruning shears?
- ASPCA — Cutleaf Philodendron (Monstera deliciosa)