Monstera Care: Light, Watering and Splits
Monsteras are the classic statement houseplant, with big split leaves that open a little more with each new leaf. They climb in nature and grow quickly indoors when they get bright light and a sturdy support. This guide answers the questions people ask most: watering, why leaves do not split, and how to propagate a bare stem.
Light
Bright, indirect light most of the day. The more light, the more splits. Solid new leaves usually mean the plant needs more light.
Water
Water thoroughly when the top one to two inches of soil are dry, usually about once a week in the growing season and less in winter. Check the soil before deciding if the leaves droop.
Support and soil
A moss pole or bark support lets it climb, which produces bigger leaves. Use a chunky, airy mix with perlite, bark or coir, in a pot with a drainage hole.
Humidity and feeding
Humidity above 50 percent helps, and a humidifier works better than misting. Keep it between 60 and 85°F. Feed every two weeks in spring and summer, and monthly in winter at a lower strength.
How to propagate a monstera
Cut the stem just below a node, with at least one leaf and one aerial root on the cutting. Root it in water or moist mix in bright, indirect light. Roots form in a few weeks. Pot the cutting once the roots are about an inch long. The node is where new growth comes from, so every cutting needs one.
How big do monsteras get?
Indoors, monsteras are usually smaller than they are in the wild, but a climbing plant with support can reach several feet. Pruning, repotting and training keep the size manageable.
Common problems
Not enough light.
Soil too dry or too wet. Check the top inches first.
Overwatering and root rot.
Low humidity.
Monsteras at Palma
We grow Monstera 'Peru', 'Siltepecana', 'Burle Marx Flame' and 'Mint'. Each has its own look, but the care is the same, and each does best with a support and bright light.
